Pressure-treated pine is the cheapest decking and the most work to keep looking good. Cedar costs more, looks better and is softer. Composite costs more again but needs no staining. PVC sits at the top of the price range, is the lightest and most moisture-proof, and moves the most with temperature. The right choice depends on your budget, how much upkeep you will actually do, and how much sun the deck gets.
Below is how the four main options compare in practice, from someone who has installed and maintained all of them.
Side-by-side comparison
Prices are national 2026 ranges from Ergeon’s deck cost guide. Local prices vary, sometimes a lot.
| Pressure-treated | Cedar | Composite | Capped PVC | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Decking materials per sq ft | $2 to $3 | $4 to $9 | $5 to $13 | $8 to $20 |
| Installed deck per sq ft | $25 to $40 | $30 to $50 | $35 to $55 (mid-grade) | $55 to $80+ |
| Regular finishing | Yes | Yes, unless left to gray | No | No |
| Splinters | Can splinter and check | Can splinter, less than PT | No | No |
| Weight | Heavy, especially when wet | Light | Heavy | Lightest of the synthetics |
| Thermal movement | Low along length | Low along length | Moderate | Highest |
| Typical warranty | Treatment warranty varies | None on most lumber | 25 years or more on many lines | Up to lifetime on some lines |
The installed figures include framing and labor, which is why the gap between materials looks smaller there than in the board prices alone.
Pressure-treated pine
Pressure-treated (PT) lumber is usually southern yellow pine or a similar softwood, forced full of preservative under pressure. It is the default for deck framing across most of the US, and it is the cheapest decking option.
What to know before buying
- Treatment level matters. Treated wood is labeled with an AWPA use category. Wood installed less than 6” above the ground after final grading should be rated UC4A ground contact, and the industry recommends ground-contact framing for joists and beams on decks generally because they are hard to replace (Western Wood Preservers Institute use category guide).
- It is often wet when you buy it. Fresh PT boards shrink as they dry, mostly across the width. Many builders install wet PT boards tight or nearly tight and let the drying open the gap. Kiln-dried-after-treatment boards are more stable but cost more.
- Thickness affects joist spacing. The IRC allows 1-1/4” (5/4) wood decking at up to 16” on center when each board spans three or more joists, and 2” decking at up to 24” (Anne Arundel County 2021 IRC deck guide). Diagonal layouts need closer spacing.
Upkeep
Untreated by finish, PT decking grays, checks and can cup. Plan on cleaning and applying a penetrating stain or water repellent once the wood has dried, then repeating every few years depending on sun and climate. Our pressure-treated lumber guide covers grades and drying in more detail.
Best for
Tight budgets, decks you plan to replace or upgrade later, and owners who do not mind a weekend of staining every couple of years.
Cedar
Western red cedar and similar species are naturally decay-resistant, light and stable, with a warm color that many people prefer to PT.
What to know before buying
- Buy heartwood. The decay resistance comes from extractives in the heartwood. The lighter sapwood does not carry the same protection, so specify heartwood grades for decking (Real Cedar finishing guidance).
- It is soft. Cedar dents more easily than PT or composite. Chair legs, dog claws and dropped grill tools leave marks.
- Use the right fasteners. Cedar’s extractives react with plain steel and cause black streaks. Use stainless steel or high-quality coated fasteners rated for cedar.
Upkeep
You can leave cedar to weather to silver-gray, which needs only cleaning. If you want to keep the original color, transparent or semi-transparent finishes need frequent reapplication. Avoid aggressive pressure washing, which raises and tears the soft fibers.
Best for
Owners who want real wood with a better look than PT and are willing to maintain it. Cedar framing is uncommon; most cedar decks sit on a PT frame.
Composite
Composite boards combine wood fiber and plastic. Nearly all current mainstream composites are capped: the core is wrapped in a harder polymer shell that resists stains, fading and moisture.
What to know before buying
- Joist spacing is usually tighter than for 2x wood. Composite manufacturers typically allow 16” on center for straight layouts and 12” for diagonal. TimberTech, for example, says joist spacing should never exceed 16” on center and requires 12” for angled installations (TimberTech installation guide). If you are re-decking an old frame built at 24” for 2x6 wood boards, you will need to add joists.
- Gaps are fixed, not optional. Trex specifies a 3/16” side gap between boards and an end gap that depends on temperature at installation (Trex installation guide). See our deck board spacing guide for each brand’s figures.
- Butt joints need extra framing. TimberTech requires board ends to land on doubled joists. Choosing board lengths that avoid seams saves both boards and framing.
- Do not mix product lines. Board thickness varies between lines, even within one brand, which can create a trip edge.
Upkeep and warranty
Capped composite needs washing, not staining. Warranties are long: Trex’s Enhance line, for example, carries a 25-year limited residential warranty that includes fade and stain coverage (Trex limited warranty). Read the terms; most cover residential use only and have specific cleaning requirements.
Heat
Composite boards in direct sun get noticeably hotter than wood, and dark colors are the worst. Several manufacturers now sell lighter or heat-mitigating colors. If your deck faces south or west with no shade, look at sample boards in full sun before ordering.
Best for
Owners who want low upkeep and a consistent look, and who can absorb a higher upfront cost. The composite deck calculator counts boards, fascia and hidden fasteners for composite builds.
Capped PVC
PVC decking contains no wood fiber. It is made from cellular PVC, usually with a harder cap layer.
What to know before buying
- It moves more with temperature. PVC expands and contracts more along its length than composite. TimberTech advises limiting board length in climates with extreme temperature swings (TimberTech installation guide), and its butt-joint gaps change with installation temperature. Follow the manufacturer’s gap table to the letter.
- It is light and moisture-proof. With no organic filler, PVC is a common choice for docks, pool surrounds and low decks close to damp ground.
- Stair spans are tight. Many PVC and scalloped boards need stair stringers closer together than solid boards; check the specific product.
Upkeep and warranty
Like composite, PVC needs only washing. TimberTech’s Advanced PVC line is backed by a 50-year fade and stain limited warranty and a limited lifetime product warranty for single-family residential use (TimberTech Advanced PVC decking).
Best for
Wet sites, pool decks and owners who want the lowest maintenance and are prepared to pay for it.
A worked comparison: 16 × 12 ft deck
For a 192 sq ft deck, using Ergeon’s 2026 ranges:
| Material | Decking boards only (192 sq ft + 10%) | Installed deck |
|---|---|---|
| Pressure-treated | about $420 to $630 | $4,800 to $7,680 |
| Cedar | about $840 to $1,900 | $5,760 to $9,600 |
| Composite | about $1,060 to $2,740 | $6,720 to $10,560 |
| Capped PVC | about $1,690 to $4,220 | $10,560 to $15,360+ |
Two things stand out. First, the board cost is a modest slice of the installed price, because framing, footings, hardware and labor are largely the same whatever goes on top. Second, the difference between PT and composite on the installed price is smaller than the board prices suggest. Add the cost of a stain job every few years on wood, and the gap narrows further over the life of the deck. Run your own numbers in the deck cost calculator, and see the deck cost breakdown for the other line items.
How to choose
- Lowest upfront cost: pressure-treated.
- Real wood with a better look: cedar, if you will maintain it.
- Low upkeep at a mid-range price: composite.
- Wet locations or lowest upkeep at any price: PVC.
- Full sun and bare feet: light-colored boards in any material, and test samples in the sun.
- Re-decking an old frame: check joist spacing and condition first. Composite and PVC usually need 16” or closer.
Whatever you choose, the frame underneath will almost certainly be pressure-treated wood, and it has to meet the joist spacing your decking manufacturer requires and the span tables your local code uses. Codes vary by jurisdiction, so confirm details with your building department.
Frequently asked questions
Which decking material lasts the longest?
Capped composite and PVC generally outlast pressure-treated pine and cedar decking with far less maintenance, and their manufacturers back them with warranties of 25 years or more. A well-maintained wood deck can still last many years, especially with good drainage and regular finishing. The frame often limits deck life as much as the boards do.
Can I put composite decking on an old wood deck frame?
Sometimes, if the frame is sound and the joists meet the composite manufacturer’s spacing, usually 16” on center or less for straight layouts. Many older decks were framed at 24” for 2x6 wood boards and need extra joists. Have the ledger, footings and joists checked before you invest in new boards.
Is PVC better than composite?
PVC is lighter, contains no wood fiber and handles moisture better, so it suits pool decks and damp sites. It also costs more and moves more with temperature, so gap and length rules are stricter. For a typical backyard deck, many owners find composite a better balance of cost and performance.
Does pressure-treated decking need to be stained?
It does not have to be, but unfinished PT decking weathers, checks and cups faster. Most builders recommend letting it dry, then applying a penetrating stain or water repellent and renewing it every few years. The how to stain a deck guide covers timing and prep.